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2012-05-14 tl;dr: I took a right turn at Cairo and now find myself paddling up the Ohio River under jumping carp. Down the middle and up the side.For the last few days I had focused on putting forth a minimum of effort to maintain speed; letting current, and sometimes wind, make up the difference. My average speed could be kept around 7 mph if I stayed in the channel. Sometimes it could jump all the way up to 9 mph for short stretches. I took a left turn at Cairo and all that changed. I am now paddling uphill (and against the wind, incidentally). My route is taking me up the Ohio River. Of course, whereas I could achieve the most speed on the Mississippi by remaining in the channel, I now must hug the shore to avoid all current. Even so, I'm lucky if I can maintain 3 mph. But after all the horror stories I've heard about the Ohio River's mighty current, 3 mph ain't bad. In fact, so far, the current isn't anywhere near comparable to the Mississippi. I stopped in Cairo for a late lunch. That poor town. I suspect it has been underwater more times than any of its beat-up residents have the fortitude to remember. There were a number of dry docks (all forcing me out into the fast current) with a large number of workers taking time out to offer me comments ("you're going too slow!" and "you need a motor") and asking me where I was headed. There is a lot of garbage along the shore. Much more than I ever saw on the Mississippi. Then I realized: this river goes by Kentucky. Holy jumping carp, Batman! Because my new course has me hugging the bank, it is also bringing me into contact with the local carp population--literal contact. The first carp cleared my deck. The second I fended off from a body assault with my paddle (luck, not skill). The third hit my back. Twice I scared up full schools of a dozen or so carp, and feared I would be pummeled as they cascaded out of the water. I don't know if it's just because I'm now so close to the bank, but there are a lot of turtles here. I amuse myself by yelling "Dive dive dive!" when I come upon a log full of them. Which happens about every ten minutes. There seems to be fewer towboats on the Ohio River. Good. They are annoying during the day. They are also annoying at night. |
 water level is dropping  turtles  where the Mississippi meets the Ohio  Mile Marker 0.8  impressively placed graffiti  shore hogging barges   garbage   the meeting of two towboats  |